Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
09-07-2011, 06:48 PM
#176
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Don,
well, I'm happy to be the first to reply. I'd like to express my continued enthusiasm for your excellent work and devotion to the preservation of these models. In time, I'm sure your efforts will be heartily rewarded.
With some luck, I hope to be able to source a fairly simple glass deck for a more recent Japanese classic (late '80's I believe) called the Skymaster. Both the 60 size and the 20 size are of interest but I am particularly fond of the smaller version designed to be powered with an inverted OS 25 VF, pipe under the deck and exhaust behind the wing TE. The concept is very similar to the deck of the Magic which you have already made. When finished building a couple of Mystics I hope to move on to the Skymaster 25. These smaller classics are not quite like their larger brethren but very enjoyable to fly and a little easier on the fuel budget.
Mold on!
David.
P.S. Pics missing from your post above!
Don,
well, I'm happy to be the first to reply. I'd like to express my continued enthusiasm for your excellent work and devotion to the preservation of these models. In time, I'm sure your efforts will be heartily rewarded.
With some luck, I hope to be able to source a fairly simple glass deck for a more recent Japanese classic (late '80's I believe) called the Skymaster. Both the 60 size and the 20 size are of interest but I am particularly fond of the smaller version designed to be powered with an inverted OS 25 VF, pipe under the deck and exhaust behind the wing TE. The concept is very similar to the deck of the Magic which you have already made. When finished building a couple of Mystics I hope to move on to the Skymaster 25. These smaller classics are not quite like their larger brethren but very enjoyable to fly and a little easier on the fuel budget.
Mold on!
David.
P.S. Pics missing from your post above!
was that similar to a Sly Leader 40 put out by FunKey Models.....i had one, fg fuse, sheeted wing that my dad built for me when i was teen...i flew it into the ground
09-07-2011, 07:20 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
MJ,
I'm not familiar with the Sly Leader. The Skymaster is a M. Kato design that was flown competitively in F3A roundabout the early 80's (date unverified). The smaller SM20 is a reduced scale version of the 60 size for RE 25 engines.
Here's a picture of it.
Here's a link to what it looks like on plans:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8999919
Note, only the top front deck of the model is FG, the rest is built up same as the 60 size (well, the 60 also has a glass cowl chin whereas the 20 has a balsa/ply chin).
You might also be generally interested in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8963192/tm.htm
David.
I'm not familiar with the Sly Leader. The Skymaster is a M. Kato design that was flown competitively in F3A roundabout the early 80's (date unverified). The smaller SM20 is a reduced scale version of the 60 size for RE 25 engines.
Here's a picture of it.
Here's a link to what it looks like on plans:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8999919
Note, only the top front deck of the model is FG, the rest is built up same as the 60 size (well, the 60 also has a glass cowl chin whereas the 20 has a balsa/ply chin).
You might also be generally interested in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8963192/tm.htm
David.
09-07-2011, 07:25 PM
#178
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Mttk
I use Fiberglass Supplies Tooling Gel Coat. It is Polyester resin in the Molds The planes and parts are West Systems Epoxy resin
Some have been bagged but most are not.
I use Fiberglass Supplies Tooling Gel Coat. It is Polyester resin in the Molds The planes and parts are West Systems Epoxy resin
Some have been bagged but most are not.
09-08-2011, 08:36 AM
#179
Senior Member
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: frequent flyer
Mttk
I use Fiberglass Supplies Tooling Gel Coat. It is Polyester resin in the Molds The planes and parts are West Systems Epoxy resin
Some have been bagged but most are not.
Mttk
I use Fiberglass Supplies Tooling Gel Coat. It is Polyester resin in the Molds The planes and parts are West Systems Epoxy resin
Some have been bagged but most are not.
I prefer Partall and PVA release agents. Have you found something better?
09-08-2011, 05:36 PM
#180
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
I'm using special Tooling Resin, regular polyester would not be as good. But considering the quantity I use Tooling resin is about half the cost. The gel coat is expensive though. I also do use Partal wax and pva release for sure.
09-09-2011, 11:42 PM
#181
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: doxilia
MJ,
I'm not familiar with the Sly Leader. The Skymaster is a M. Kato design that was flown competitively in F3A roundabout the early 80's (date unverified). The smaller SM20 is a reduced scale version of the 60 size for RE 25 engines.
Here's a picture of it.
Here's a link to what it looks like on plans:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8999919
Note, only the top front deck of the model is FG, the rest is built up same as the 60 size (well, the 60 also has a glass cowl chin whereas the 20 has a balsa/ply chin).
You might also be generally interested in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8963192/tm.htm
David.
MJ,
I'm not familiar with the Sly Leader. The Skymaster is a M. Kato design that was flown competitively in F3A roundabout the early 80's (date unverified). The smaller SM20 is a reduced scale version of the 60 size for RE 25 engines.
Here's a picture of it.
Here's a link to what it looks like on plans:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8999919
Note, only the top front deck of the model is FG, the rest is built up same as the 60 size (well, the 60 also has a glass cowl chin whereas the 20 has a balsa/ply chin).
You might also be generally interested in this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8963192/tm.htm
David.
09-10-2011, 05:15 AM
#182
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
MJ,
now I see. The Mutchler's Hobbies FK models are all knock-offs of famous pattern ships:
[ul][*] SBA = Blue Angel[*] Acromaster = Arrow[*] Career = Curare[*] Skyleader = Skymaster
[/ul]
I'm not sure what the Jetstar is a copy of but it's a 40 size model as is the Skyleader. The Jetstar could be a copy of Matt's Super Star. They changed the dimensions of the models slightly compared to the originals.
David.
now I see. The Mutchler's Hobbies FK models are all knock-offs of famous pattern ships:
[ul][*] SBA = Blue Angel[*] Acromaster = Arrow[*] Career = Curare[*] Skyleader = Skymaster
[/ul]
I'm not sure what the Jetstar is a copy of but it's a 40 size model as is the Skyleader. The Jetstar could be a copy of Matt's Super Star. They changed the dimensions of the models slightly compared to the originals.
David.
09-10-2011, 06:38 PM
#183
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
cool deal Sherloack... you solved the puzzle... i hdant a clue..... man i would love a skymaster, i love 70s and 80s pattern ships
09-10-2011, 08:56 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie
Cool deal Sherlock... you solved the puzzle... I hadn't a clue..... man i would love a Skymaster...
Cool deal Sherlock... you solved the puzzle... I hadn't a clue..... man i would love a Skymaster...
David.
09-14-2011, 06:17 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Jeff
Here are a few of the pictures of the Illusion mold. First & second are the waxed fuselage put into a parting board and sprayed with PVA release. Next is the gel coat sprayed. Forth is the first coat of resin on the gel coat and it is about to receive the first layer of cloth.
Here are a few of the pictures of the Illusion mold. First & second are the waxed fuselage put into a parting board and sprayed with PVA release. Next is the gel coat sprayed. Forth is the first coat of resin on the gel coat and it is about to receive the first layer of cloth.
09-14-2011, 07:02 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
I took one more but it's getting dark and it isn't that good of a picture. It is after the cloth is all laid on and it's drying. Tomorrow I will trim the borders of the mold, wax and PVA the other side. Friday I will lay up the other side.
09-15-2011, 02:58 AM
#187
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Hi frequent flyer,
You are really a busy bee with the glass work etc - I'm very impressed.
Do You have any mould for Jim Kirkland's Nutcracker? I know someone made great glass fuselages (and foam wing+stab) just a few years ago.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7689281
If not I wonder if anyone would be kind enough to have such plane duplicated at Your place so that plane is available to more pattern plane fans in the future.
I would buy one copy of You immediately for sure.
/Bo
You are really a busy bee with the glass work etc - I'm very impressed.
Do You have any mould for Jim Kirkland's Nutcracker? I know someone made great glass fuselages (and foam wing+stab) just a few years ago.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7689281
If not I wonder if anyone would be kind enough to have such plane duplicated at Your place so that plane is available to more pattern plane fans in the future.
I would buy one copy of You immediately for sure.
/Bo
09-15-2011, 03:57 AM
#188
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
There was a Nutcracker at the SPA table at Perry Ga last year for sale, $150 or so as I recall. A post on the SPA discussion list might result in owning a new Nutcracker. The kit was the Early RC version made by Wing.
Jon
Jon
09-15-2011, 04:12 AM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Holy Cow, Don
Looks like I better get off my hind parts and get my belly pan to you. Seriously though, I've been up to my eyeballs in alligators for the last few weeks and I haven't had the time. The good news is that things should be almost back to normal by the end of this week. I will pu it in the mail to you Friday afternoon.
Sorry for the delay.
David
Looks like I better get off my hind parts and get my belly pan to you. Seriously though, I've been up to my eyeballs in alligators for the last few weeks and I haven't had the time. The good news is that things should be almost back to normal by the end of this week. I will pu it in the mail to you Friday afternoon.
Sorry for the delay.
David
09-15-2011, 06:14 AM
#190
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
David,
just sent you an email re the Illusion.
Don,
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the "soft" rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
just sent you an email re the Illusion.
Don,
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the "soft" rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
09-15-2011, 07:37 AM
#191
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Don,
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the ''soft'' rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
[/quote]
My fuses all look the same as that. I'm sure it is Epoxy resin. If the fast hardener is used it is more amber colored that the slow hardener. You can see in these pictures.
Also in the third picture you can see a new fuse (the lightest one) is slow hardener, the second is fast hardener, and the rear or third one is the old original fuse that has aged and become very amber.
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the ''soft'' rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
[/quote]
My fuses all look the same as that. I'm sure it is Epoxy resin. If the fast hardener is used it is more amber colored that the slow hardener. You can see in these pictures.
Also in the third picture you can see a new fuse (the lightest one) is slow hardener, the second is fast hardener, and the rear or third one is the old original fuse that has aged and become very amber.
09-15-2011, 09:08 AM
#192
Senior Member
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: doxilia
David,
just sent you an email re the Illusion.
Don,
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the ''soft'' rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
David,
just sent you an email re the Illusion.
Don,
have you had any ideas or thoughts on the stiffness issue with the back of the Tipo's and the Illusion? I'm wondering if the Illusion might be a little stiffer than the T720 due to the higher wing position and the glass fillets mid-draft?
I came across these pictures of a Phoenix laid up by Early RC Models in reference to the Nutcracker thread. Was wondering whether this might sort out the issues with the ''soft'' rear and avoid having to build a tedious ladder which also partly gets in the way of linkages. Thoughts?
BTW, any idea what kind of resin that might be to result in such clear fuses? All the epoxy I have seen is typically yellow. Polyester on the other hand seems to come in a myriad of colours (blue, green, etc.). Perhaps easier to pigment? Do you think this might be a polyester fuse?
David.
The rear of any layed-up fuse may be stiffened in several ways. One way is to laminate a composite sandwich with 1/32" balsa and with lower weight glass. The resultant fuse will actually be lighter than ones that are 100% glass. Another way is to lay carbon tow on bias at about 1" centers.
Neither method will preserve the original build method so neither would be a pure copy. But either method will result in a better product. Take your pick and choice
Most 2 part epoxy systems we use have an amine based part B. This material is photochemically sensitive and will turn amber with age and light and air exposure. Some yellowing is no big deal. But if the catalyst part B turns dark amber to brown, the resulting polymer will not have the same properties (weaker) as the fresh ingredients will make. I've found shelf life of good epoxy systems such as Pro Set to be around 4-5 years with good sealing practice of the containers
Other catalyst systems such as that used in John Greer epoxies, are not photochemically reactive since they are not amine based. The resultant epoxy color is clear and stays that way. Speaking from personal experience with this type of epoxy system, strength is there but stifness is not as good as with a good amine based systems such as West Systems, EZLam, or Pro Set
09-15-2011, 09:09 AM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: frequent flyer
Jeff
Here are a few of the pictures of the Illusion mold. First & second are the waxed fuselage put into a parting board and sprayed with PVA release. Next is the gel coat sprayed. Forth is the first coat of resin on the gel coat and it is about to receive the first layer of cloth.
Jeff
Here are a few of the pictures of the Illusion mold. First & second are the waxed fuselage put into a parting board and sprayed with PVA release. Next is the gel coat sprayed. Forth is the first coat of resin on the gel coat and it is about to receive the first layer of cloth.
So let me see if I get this process. The parting board is say (2) 1/4 boards and you have some sort of alignment pins. Then you trace the outline of the fuse or part close onto the pinned together boards. Cut out the space for the part. Next use a filler of some sort (The light blue stuff) to hold the part in place. Next gel coat, resin, glass and build it up. Not forgetting the release agent!
Then you separate the (2) parting boards, the original comes out, and you then have your mold correct?
09-15-2011, 11:05 AM
#194
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: frequent flyer
My fuses all look the same as that. I'm sure it is Epoxy resin. If the fast hardener is used it is more amber colored that the slow hardener. You can see in these pictures.
My fuses all look the same as that. I'm sure it is Epoxy resin. If the fast hardener is used it is more amber colored that the slow hardener. You can see in these pictures.
Looking forward to seeing the first Illusions come out of the mold!
David.
09-15-2011, 11:14 AM
#195
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: MTK
Dave,
The rear of any layed-up fuse may be stiffened in several ways. One way is to laminate a composite sandwich with 1/32'' balsa and with lower weight glass. The resultant fuse will actually be lighter than ones that are 100% glass. Another way is to lay carbon tow on bias at about 1'' centers.
Neither method will preserve the original build method so neither would be a pure copy. But either method will result in a better product. Take your pick and choice
Most 2 part epoxy systems we use have an amine based part B. This material is photochemically sensitive and will turn amber with age and light and air exposure. Some yellowing is no big deal. But if the catalyst part B turns dark amber to brown, the resulting polymer will not have the same properties (weaker) as the fresh ingredients will make. I've found shelf life of good epoxy systems such as Pro Set to be around 4-5 years with good sealing practice of the containers
Other catalyst systems such as that used in John Greer epoxies, are not photochemically reactive since they are not amine based. The resultant epoxy color is clear and stays that way. Speaking from personal experience with this type of epoxy system, strength is there but stiffness is not as good as with a good amine based systems such as West Systems, EZLam, or Pro Set
Dave,
The rear of any layed-up fuse may be stiffened in several ways. One way is to laminate a composite sandwich with 1/32'' balsa and with lower weight glass. The resultant fuse will actually be lighter than ones that are 100% glass. Another way is to lay carbon tow on bias at about 1'' centers.
Neither method will preserve the original build method so neither would be a pure copy. But either method will result in a better product. Take your pick and choice
Most 2 part epoxy systems we use have an amine based part B. This material is photochemically sensitive and will turn amber with age and light and air exposure. Some yellowing is no big deal. But if the catalyst part B turns dark amber to brown, the resulting polymer will not have the same properties (weaker) as the fresh ingredients will make. I've found shelf life of good epoxy systems such as Pro Set to be around 4-5 years with good sealing practice of the containers
Other catalyst systems such as that used in John Greer epoxies, are not photochemically reactive since they are not amine based. The resultant epoxy color is clear and stays that way. Speaking from personal experience with this type of epoxy system, strength is there but stiffness is not as good as with a good amine based systems such as West Systems, EZLam, or Pro Set
thanks for the very enlightening info. Always eager to learn something new regarding mold making. One day I'll make one if none other than the experience.
The CF comment I was making regarding the P5 (or P6 not sure) in reference to Tipo's and Illusions was intended to be a "fast" way to stiffen up the rear without Don having to get into more complex and expensive laminating techniques. I know he already uses CF tow for certain areas so I thought it might be an "easy" option.
Coming back to your comments though, other than what Don mentioned regarding the "speed" of the hardener, is there any validity in considering a deep amber fuse to be weaker or of less quality than one that is clearer? I'm only venturing on this thought based on the idea that the epoxy might have been mixed with a more aged and exposed hardener. Possible?
Otherwise, if the fuse is deep amber compared to light or clear, can we argue that the fuse is "fresher" or otherwise was laid up with slower hardeners?
All this of course assuming that amine based hardener epoxies are being used.
TIA, David.
09-15-2011, 12:18 PM
#196
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: doxilia
thanks for the very enlightening info. Always eager to learn something new regarding mold making. One day I'll make one if none other than the experience.
The CF comment I was making regarding the P5 (or P6 not sure) in reference to Tipo's and Illusions was intended to be a ''fast'' way to stiffen up the rear without Don having to get into more complex and expensive laminating techniques. I know he already uses CF tow for certain areas so I thought it might be an ''easy'' option.
Coming back to your comments though, other than what Don mentioned regarding the ''speed'' of the hardener, is there any validity in considering a deep amber fuse to be weaker or of less quality than one that is clearer? I'm only venturing on this thought based on the idea that the epoxy might have been mixed with a more aged and exposed hardener. Possible?
Otherwise, if the fuse is deep amber compared to light or clear, can we argue that the fuse is ''fresher'' or otherwise was laid up with slower hardeners?
All this of course assuming that amine based hardener epoxies are being used.
TIA, David.
thanks for the very enlightening info. Always eager to learn something new regarding mold making. One day I'll make one if none other than the experience.
The CF comment I was making regarding the P5 (or P6 not sure) in reference to Tipo's and Illusions was intended to be a ''fast'' way to stiffen up the rear without Don having to get into more complex and expensive laminating techniques. I know he already uses CF tow for certain areas so I thought it might be an ''easy'' option.
Coming back to your comments though, other than what Don mentioned regarding the ''speed'' of the hardener, is there any validity in considering a deep amber fuse to be weaker or of less quality than one that is clearer? I'm only venturing on this thought based on the idea that the epoxy might have been mixed with a more aged and exposed hardener. Possible?
Otherwise, if the fuse is deep amber compared to light or clear, can we argue that the fuse is ''fresher'' or otherwise was laid up with slower hardeners?
All this of course assuming that amine based hardener epoxies are being used.
TIA, David.
You come across as the experimental type. By all means, I highly recommend trying your hand at mold making. I've done these since the early 80's, and my first efforst were very crude by any standard. It has been a very good experience for me. Trying to separate a propeller mold without proper waxing was not fun.
All types of amine based hardeners are susciptible to age, speed matters rather little unfortunately. Often, hobby types of epoxies will have additives to retard the action but I don't care for the additives....one reason hobby epoxies are somewhat weak. On the other hand, good lay-up epoxies usually are not retarded such that maximum strength can be extracted from the system.
An aged, deep amber fuse may be weaker than one made from fresher resins, but I doubt that one would tell much difference in practice. Most of the strength comes from the glass. I don't think you'd need to worry unecessarily. Good luck and let me know if you need any help with the project.
As the original poster and I have already discussed, Partall and PVA (I cut my PVA with water slightly to aid spraying) are the hidden ingredients absolutely necessary to part the parts if you will. This combo is just about foolproof
09-19-2011, 05:48 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: hrrcflyer
Holy Cow, Don
Looks like I better get off my hind parts and get my belly pan to you. Seriously though, I've been up to my eyeballs in alligators for the last few weeks and I haven't had the time. The good news is that things should be almost back to normal by the end of this week. I will pu it in the mail to you Friday afternoon.
Sorry for the delay.
David
Holy Cow, Don
Looks like I better get off my hind parts and get my belly pan to you. Seriously though, I've been up to my eyeballs in alligators for the last few weeks and I haven't had the time. The good news is that things should be almost back to normal by the end of this week. I will pu it in the mail to you Friday afternoon.
Sorry for the delay.
David
Yeah David, I'm finished with the Illusion and the regular pan. Send the Tunnel pan and I'll get it right back to you two days later.
Thanks Don
09-19-2011, 06:07 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
ORIGINAL: jquid
So let me see if I get this process. The parting board is say (2) 1/4 boards and you have some sort of alignment pins. Then you trace the outline of the fuse or part close onto the pinned together boards. Cut out the space for the part. Next use a filler of some sort (The light blue stuff) to hold the part in place. Next gel coat, resin, glass and build it up. Not forgetting the release agent!
Then you separate the (2) parting boards, the original comes out, and you then have your mold correct?
So let me see if I get this process. The parting board is say (2) 1/4 boards and you have some sort of alignment pins. Then you trace the outline of the fuse or part close onto the pinned together boards. Cut out the space for the part. Next use a filler of some sort (The light blue stuff) to hold the part in place. Next gel coat, resin, glass and build it up. Not forgetting the release agent!
Then you separate the (2) parting boards, the original comes out, and you then have your mold correct?
No,there is only one parting board. I build a 1x4 pine frame. Make sure use use straight lumber. Then I use 3/16" tempered Masonite. You trace the fuse on the board, cut it out very accurately. Then add 3 or 4 1x4 cross braces under the model to keep it in place with the parting board on the seam line. Then using modeling clay you pack the gap. Your gap should be very small if any. I pack the clay all around the back side and then the front and trim it off the front very square to the fuse. Then wax it a few times with Partall and spray PVA release. Then spray Gel coat, then lay the glass cloth starting with small very thin weight cloth working up to 10 oz. cloth. You need to be very careful that you have NO bubbles, especially in the first layers of cloth or the mold will be ruined.
When all is don and dry you remove the half you made with the fuse still in it from the parting board carefully! Clean it , wax it, PVA it , gel coat it, apply the glass cloth. you get the drill, right? It all sounds easy but every little detail is critical to a successful outcome. In other words, a modl that is perfect, with no wrinkles in the gel coat, or bubbles is a test of your techniques.
09-20-2011, 05:53 PM
#199
RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
Don, what's your equipment setup for spraying the PVA and gelcoat. Also, whats your secret to removing the moisture from the compressed air?
09-20-2011, 06:04 PM
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RE: Making Molds of Classic Pattern Plane Fuselages & Parts to Keep them Alive for all of us to Enjoy!
I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush to spray the PVA. I don't worry about the moisture it's never been a problem where I am. You can put a moisture trap on your compressor if it is , Harbor freight has one for about $30.00 when they are on sell. I use a gel coat cup gun to spray the gel coat, it is the only way.